The wonderful world of incubation by Brinsea.com Marans eggs made easy with Brinsea incubators and candlers.
The Incubation Specialists.
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Mini
Advance EX – for total control |
Based
on the Mini Advance, the EX provides vital
additional features for breeders of small
numbers of highly valuable eggs and is particularly
suitable for parrots’ eggs. The EX version
replaces the countdown to hatch feature of
the Advance with accurate management of
incubation humidity with Brinsea’s proven
humidity control system: just dial in the
desired humidity level, keep the water reservoir
topped up and the incubator does the rest.
Furthermore the EX gives the user the ability
to select a wide range of turning intervals
down to a
minimum of just 5 minutes – ideal for
parrots.
Mini Advance EX
additional features
• Continuous readout of temperature
and humidity
• Accurate digital control of temperature
and humidity
• Fully programmable automatic egg

The
EX version with the Humidity Pump
effectively maintains the humidity
level precisely at the level the user
sets irrespective of changes in room
humidity and so overcomes problems
that can commonly lead to eggs failing
to hatch – especially in the
latest stages of incubation. The Humidity
Pump includes an external water reservoir
eliminating the chances of water in
the incubator harbouring bacteria.
Improved
control for valuable and hard-to-incubate
eggs.
Humidity
is a crucial factor in the success
(or otherwise) of eggs and the EX
version of the Octagon 20 Advance
puts
accurate control of humidity in the
hands of
the user.
The Octagon 20 Advance EX
is an Octagon 20 Advance incubator
with the matching Humidity Pump module
to maintain total control of the incubation
humidity level and additional foam
lined egg dividers to protect fragile
or damaged eggs and eliminate effects
of jolts. The standard Octagon 20
Advance provides a readout of incubation
humidity but requires the user to
alter humidity to achieve the ideal
average level.
The
Humidity Pump module is designed to
work seamlessly with the Octagon 20
Advance and can be purchased later
as an upgrade from Octagon 20 Advance
to Octagon 20 Advance EX.
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OvaEasy
190 and 380 Advance EX
Improved control for valuable and hard-to-incubate
eggs |
Humidity is a crucial factor in the success
(or otherwise) of eggs and the EX versions
of the OvaEasy 190 and 380 Advance incubators
put accurate control of humidity in the hands
of the user.
humidity pump connected

The standard OvaEasy 190 and 380 Advance provide
a continuous readout of incubation humidity
but requires the user to alter humidity to
achieve the ideal average level.
The EX version with the Humidity Pump effectively
maintains the humidity level precisely at
the level the user sets irrespective of changes
in room humidity and so overcomes problems
that can commonly lead to eggs failing to
hatch – especially in the latest stages
of incubation.
The Humidity Pump includes an external water
reservoir eliminating the chances of water
in the incubator harbouring bacteria.
The Humidity Pump module is designed to work
seamlessly with the OvaEasy Advance incubators
and can be purchased later as an upgrade from
Advance to Advance EX status. |
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EcoGlow Chick Brooder
Now available!
Only
$59.99
Shop securely
at www.Brinsea.com or call 1-888-667-7009 for more details.
Brinsea is pleased to announce that the new EcoGlow
chick brooder is now available!
The EcoGlow is ideal for keeping newly hatched poultry,
game and waterfowl warm:
- Three height settings for different sized chicks
- Indicator light confirms the brooder is connected
- Tough plastic construction for durability and easy
cleaning
- Very safe - 12v power source for complete peace of
mind
- Extremely economical - uses just 18 Watts of power
to keep up to twenty chicks warm
- The low cost of the EcoGlow makes it possible for
larger numbers of chicks to be warmed by multiples of brooders.
- 2-year warranty
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INCUBATION
TOPICS -
Why Fit a Fan
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There
are two distinctly different kinds of small
incubator, those with a fan and those without
a fan; ‘forced draught’ and
‘still air’.
Brinsea manufacture both and users are sometimes
confused by the choice. The difference in
the way eggs are warmed is important but
often not fully appreciated.
Here are some of the considerations.
To achieve good lateral temperature consistency,
‘Still air’ incubators (those
without fans) are
generally heated from above the level of
the eggs and exhibit a marked temperature
difference
between the upper and lower levels so that
the tops of the eggs are up to 4°C (7°F)
warmer
than the bottoms.
Introducing a fan into the incubator dramatically
changes the situation and eliminates the
temperature gradient for all practical purposes.
It follows that if eggs are to be set on
different
levels in the same machine it is essential
to circulate the air mechanically so that
all the eggs
are exposed to the same temperature.
However since many of us are concerned with
relatively small numbers of eggs which can
all
be set on one level there is a real choice
to be made.
As well as eliminating the temperature gradient
a fan also eliminates variations in the
Relative
Humidity. R.H. is closely related to temperature
(see Brinsea information sheet ‘Humidity
in
Incubation’) in such a way that (for
a given volume of moist air) the relative
humidity reduces
rapidly as temperature rises.
The diagram illustrates the kind of temperature
and humidity variations that may be expected
within a still air incubator.
The importance of this illustration is to
show that definitive measurement of the
RH as well as
temperature become very tricky in still
air conditions. In practice it is rather
inconvenient to
measure (or control) temperature or humidity
at ‘mean’ egg temperature that
presumably is
half way up the egg.
Sensors mixed up with eggs are exposed to
damage and contamination and are liable
to
missmeasurement due to direct contact with
eggs or chicks. Remember that the metabolic
heat of
the embryo will raise the egg temperature
above that of the air you are trying to
control. So,
control and measurement in still air incubators
is normally done above the eggs and some
correction is necessary to allow for the
temperature gradient.
The temperature gradient is itself variable,
dependent upon outside temperature. In cold
conditions it is necessary to raise the
temperature slightly at the top of the eggs
to achieve the
same mean temperature because the egg bottoms
are now colder.
Even the thermometer may be affected by
the temperature gradient. A slight increase
in
reading will result from the stem being
in a warmer zone than the bulb. This is
due to thermal
conduction taking place down the stem and
raising the bulb temperature slightly above
its
surrounding air.
All these difficulties can be eliminated
at a stroke by incorporating a fan. Almost
all
experiments carried out by research workers
studying the process of incubation are conducted
in forced draught conditions. This reduces
the number of variables and makes for a
more
predictable environment.
So why bother with still air? Here we get
into an area fraught with subjective views
and
prejudice. Obviously a fan adds to the cost
of a machine. Cheaper machines are therefore
usually still air.
One trade-off on the cost is that still
air incubators need to be better insulated
than those with
fans to keep the temperature gradient within
limits. Insulated cabinets tend to be more
expensive unless they are made of polystyrene.
More important than cost is the relatively
un-researched question of how eggs fair
with a
temperature gradient compared with the forced
draught condition. Experimental work using
dummy eggs filled with sensors and placed
in wild nests indicate that a significant
temperature gradient is normal in the natural
environment.
Also quite wide fluctuations occur which
would be considered highly suspect in an
incubator.
Our experience over many years of manufacturing
incubators is that significantly more users
of still air incubators are likely to achieve
satisfactory hatches. We don’t know
why. We can
achieve virtually identical performance
with either type of machine in our own laboratory
with a range of different species’
eggs.
Our suspicion is that eggs incubated in
conditions with a temperature gradient similar
to the
natural environment are more tolerant of
‘less than ideal’ incubator
settings.
It is also probable that the eggs of wild
birds are better suited to the more natural
conditions
of still air incubators. After all, they
have not been subjected to the process of
artificial
selection over countless generations to
dispose them favorably to forced draught
conditions.
So much for theories. Now for some practical
suggestions.
Temperature
Most avian species incubate best at a mean
temperature of 37 to 38°C (98.6 to 100.4°F)
Waterfowl are best kept at 37 to 37.5°C
(98.6 to 99.5°F). In forced draught
incubators this
would be the temperature indicated on the
thermometer.
In still air machines the temperature indicated
would depend on the position of the
thermometer, which is quite critical - so
follow the instructions carefully about
adjusting the
height. It will also depend on the construction
and temperature gradient in the incubator,
so
again, follow the instructions.
In the absence of instructions set the thermometer
just clear of the top of the eggs and run
the
incubator at an indicated temperature of
39 to 39.5°C (102.2 to 103°F).
It is important to appreciate that no incubator
has perfect temperature distribution. Heat
losses
from the cabinet must be balanced by heat
provided by the heater.
The process of transferring heat from one
to the other necessarily involves a temperature
drop
- even with a fan- and this drop will mean
that some eggs are warmer than others.
To keep these differences small, operate
the incubator in warm, steady conditions.
Ideally use a thermostatic electric convector
heater to maintain a steady room temperature
of
20 to 25°C, day and night.
Hatching
Low air speed and high humidity give the
best hatching results. In forced draught
incubators
the RH needs to be high (70% or more) to
prevent excessive drying of exposed membranes.
In still air incubators this problem is
much less severe and a dramatic rise in
humidity
accompanies the first birds out which no
doubt helps those that follow. Temperature
in
hatchers is usually run about 0.5°C
(1°F) lower than during incubation to
compensate for the
high metabolic rate of the emerging chicks.
Summary
Improvements in the design of incubators
together with reducing costs of reliable
electronic
temperature controls is making it possible
to control the incubation regime more precisely
than before. However, for non-domesticated
species much work needs to be done to
determine the ideal conditions.
For example, why is it that eggs incubated
under natural parents for the first few
days and
then transferred to a machine hatch appreciably
better than those set in an incubator from
the
start?
Why do we find that eggs incubated in still
air incubators tend to be more tolerant
of
deviations in temperature and humidity than
those in forced draft incubators?
It may be premature to dismiss still air
incubators as out of date until incubator
design can
more closely mimic natural nest conditions.

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This page is still under contruction
BROODERS
& INTENSIVE CARE UNITS
TLC-4
Brooder - The
advanced Octagon thermal life-support cabinet brooder.
(Click above for more information). |
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|
NEW
TLC-5 Brooder - Large
portable brooder / intensive care unit.
Click above for more information |

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Cosy Lamp Chick Brooder
- Clean, economical chick brooder ideal for up
to about 50 chicks or ducklings and suitable for
most waterfowl, quail, etc. Clear plastic and
glowing lamps let you keep an eye on progress.
Uses standard lamp bulbs.
$155.00 - BUY
NOW
|
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Chick Enclosure Panels
- A set of 8 plastic panels which interlock to
form an enclosure about 860mm (34") diameter,
suitable for young precocial chicks, fowl, quail,
waterfowl, etc. Ideal for use with cosy-lamp brooder.
$19.99- BUY
NOW
| | |
| Brinsea Incubators and Candlers are the ideal way when it comes to incubating and candling the dark marans eggs. With the dark egg shells tha marans are probably the hardest egg to hatch or candle. More on this Brinsea page later. This page is still under construction. |
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| Brinsea Incubation Handbook |
Brinsea Handbook on incubation
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INCUBATION
TOPICS -
What If the Power Goes Off?
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This
is a question frequently asked by anxious
incubationists, usually after the event
which
came unexpectedly and the query is therefore
‘what damage is likely to have been
done?’
Occasionally the power shutdown can be predicted
and the concern is to keep damage to a
minimum.
With the emergency situation in mind as
well as the more subtle question about daily
cooling
of eggs during incubation, we have attempted
to set out some of the more fundamental
research information together with our own
experiences and suggestions.
A review by H. Lundy of research carried
out by a number of scientists over many
years
identified five temperature zones each of
which is characterized by its major affect
on the
developing embryo. These zones are not clear
cut. There is some overlapping and the time
for
which the embryo is exposed and the age
of the embryo blur the limits.
Lundy’s five incubation Temperature
Zones:-
Zone
of heat injury
Zone of hatching potential
Zone of disproportionate
development
Zone of suspended
development
Zone of cold injury |
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In common with most scientific work on incubation,
this data assumes an incubator with a fan
(virtually no temperature differences within
the incubator) and was based on chicken
eggs.
These zones are further explained as follows:
Zone of heat injury (above 40.5°C/104.9°F)
At continuous temperatures above 40.5°C
(104.9°F) no embryos would be expected
to hatch.
However the effect of short periods of high
temperature are not necessarily lethal.
Embryos
up to 6 days are particularly susceptible,
older embryos are more tolerant. For example,
embryos up to 5 days may well be killed
by a few hours exposure to 41°C (105.8°F)
but
approaching hatching time they may survive
temperatures as high as 43.5°C (110°F)
for
several hours.
Zone of hatching potential (35 - 40.5°C/104.9
- 84.5°F)
Within a range of 35 to 40.5°C (84.5
- 104.9°F) there is the possibility
of eggs hatching. The
optimum (for hens) is 37.8 °C (100.4°F),
above this temperature as well as a reduced
hatch
there will be an increase in the number
of crippled and deformed chicks. Above 40.5
°C
(104.9°F) no embryos will survive.
Continuous temperatures within this range
but below optimum retard development and
increase mortalities. However it is again
evident that early embryos are more susceptible
to
continuous slightly low temperatures than
older embryos. Indeed, from 16 days on it
may be
beneficial to lower the incubation temperature
by up to 2°C (3.6°F). I emphasis
the word
‘continuous’ because the effects
of short term reduction in temperature are
different and are
discussed later.
Zone of disproportionate development (27
- 35°C/80.6 - 95°F)
Eggs kept above 27°C (80.6°F) will
start to develop. However the development
will be
disproportionate in the sense that some
parts of the embryo will develop faster
than others
and some organs may not develop at all.
Below 35°C (95°F) no embryo is likely
to survive to
hatch. Typically the heart is much enlarged
and the head development more advanced than
the trunk and limbs.
The temperature at the lower end of this
range is sometimes referred to as ‘Physiological
zero’ - the threshold temperature
for embryonic development. Unfortunately
different organs
appear to have different thresholds resulting
in an unviable entity.
Zone of suspended development (-2°C
- 27°C/28.4 - 80.6°F)
Below about 27°C (80°F) no embryonic
development takes place. Prior to incubation,
eggs
must be stored in this temperature range
(preferably around 15°C/59°F).
Zone of cold injury ( -2°C/28.4°F)
Below this threshold ice crystals will start
to form in the egg and permanently damage
may be
done to internal structures. Eggs may lie
for some considerable time in temperatures
close to
freezing without suffering damage.
The analysis above gives us a fair idea
of what may be happening to embryos kept
continuously or for long periods within
these temperature bands. Of course continuous
incubation at any temperature other than
near optimum is of little practical interest
because it
will not result in live birds but this information
does give a better understanding of what
may
happen if eggs should be accidentally overheated
or chilled.
Further scientific data has resulted from
experiments concerned specifically with
intermittent
chilling of eggs. There is evidence that,
during the early phase of incubation, chilling
of eggs
to below ‘physiological zero’
(say 25°C/77°F) does less harm than
chilling to temperatures
above that level. Embryos up to 7 days old
may well survive cooling to near freezing
for 24
hours or more without damage.
The cooling delays hatching but not by as
much as the period of chilling - so there
appears to
be some degree of compensation. The older
the embryo, the more likely it is to die
as a result
of chilling to below 27°C/80.6°F
but the effect on surviving embryos is not
detrimental.
Other experiments have concentrated on cooling
eggs less severely to temperatures within
the
zone of ‘disproportionate development’.
In virtually all such experiments, increases
in
hatchability have been reported varying
from 2% to 25%, or even higher in the case
of ducks
and geese. There is some doubt as to whether
the effect is due to changes in humidity,
CO2
level or to chilling alone.
A number of conclusions from this data which
have practical implications:
1. Cooling eggs for short periods, say 30
to 40 minutes, on a regular basis (say once
every 24 hours) at any stage during incubation
has no detrimental effect and is
probably of benefit.
2. If eggs are likely to be cooled for longer
periods (more than 2 hours) the way they
should be treated depends upon their state
of development. If the eggs are newly set
the best plan is to cool them fairly quickly
down to 5 - 20°C (41 - 68°F) and
hold
them in this range - put them in the fridge!
It
may also be best to treat eggs this way
up to about the 14th day, although greater
losses must be expected if severe cooling
occurs later in incubation.
If power loss occurs when the eggs are near
hatching, incubator temperature is less
critical, but severe chilling will cause
mortalities. It is preferable therefore,
to take
reasonable steps to limit heat loss by keeping
the incubator shut and raising the
temperature of the room if possible. The
metabolic heat from the embryos will keep
them warm for quite a long time.
3. Avoid maintaining eggs in early stages
of incubation for long periods of time in
the
‘zone of disproportionate development’
(27 - 35°C/80.6 - 95°F). This will
result in a
large number of deaths and abnormalities.
4. Avoid subjecting the eggs to over-temperature
at any time but particularly in the early
days of incubation.
Remember that incubator thermometer readings
will not be the same as embryo temperatures
when cooling or heating occurs. The eggs
will lag behind the air temperature. For
example,
cooling hens eggs by taking them out of
the incubator into a room at 20°C/68°F
for 30-40
minutes is likely to cool the internal egg
temperature by only 3 - 5°C (7 - 10°F).
Eggs smaller
or larger than hens eggs will react quicker
or slower accordingly.
There is very little data on the effects
of cooling eggs of other species. Duck eggs
and to an
even greater extent, goose eggs, are said
to benefit from periodic cooling. Our own
experience
seems to confirm this and we know of instances
where the eggs of both duck and domestic
geese have been subjected to severe cooling
for prolonged periods without harm.
There is an obvious analogy with the natural
process in cooling eggs periodically. Most
species of bird leave the nest for short
periods to feed. It is quite possible that
the resulting
cooling and re-heating provides a stimulus
to the embryo, which actually encourages
growth.
If the effect is more pronounced in ducks
and geese it may be because the requirement
has, to
some extent, been bred out of hens by years
of artificial incubation. It would follow
that
totally wild species may be even more susceptible
to a cooling stimulus. Certainly there is
no
evidence to suggest that short term cooling
is likely to be harmful.
Hopefully these explanations will enable
bird breeders to assess the likelihood of
damage
from accidents. It should certainly allay
any fears about the cooling that may accompany
the
manual turning or inspection of eggs! |
INCUBATION
TOPICS Humidity
In Incubation
|
Humidity
is one of four primary variables which must
be controlled during egg incubation - the
others
being temperature, ventilation and movement
(or turning). Humidity is the most difficult
of the four to
measure accurately and control and therefore
is commonly misunderstood. The operator
instructions
that accompany all incubators give guidelines
to achieve correct humidity levels for most
species
under normal conditions and in most cases
this gives excellent results so please check
that you have
followed these guide lines. However there
are times when incorrect humidity levels
do cause problems
and further steps are needed to check that
humidity levels are correct. This information
sheet explains
the effect of different humidity levels,
measurement of humidity and the best techniques
for achieving
correct humidity levels.
Before spending time and effort checking
incubation humidity levels it essential
to ensure that
temperature and egg turning are correct
- refer to the unit’s operating instructions.
Also check that the
eggs are fertile and the parent stock healthy,
properly fed and free from in-breeding.
The effect of humidity upon the incubating
egg
Egg shells are porous - they allow water
to pass through, and so all eggs, whether
being incubated or
not, dry out slowly. The amount of water
that an egg loses during incubation is important
and this is
determined by the humidity levels within
an incubator; if the humidity level is higher
then the egg will
‘dry out’ more slowly than if
the humidity is lower.
All eggs have an air space at the round
end and as water is lost through the shell
it is replaced by air
drawn through the shell into the air space
which gradually increases in size –
the greater the water loss
through the shell, the larger the airspace.
This air space plays a crucial part in incubation.
Within it is
the first air that the fully developed chick
breathes and the space allows the developed
chick some
movement inside the shell to allow it to
maneuver into hatching position.
If the incubation humidity has been too
high the egg will have lost too little moisture
and the chick
will be rather large. In this case the air
space will be too small, the chick’s
respiration will be affected
and the young bird will have difficulty
breaking out of the shell because of the
lack of space.
Commonly with excessive incubation humidity
the chicks will die having broken through
the shell in
one place (‘pipped’) either
through weakness because of the lack of
air to breathe in the shell or
because of lack of space to turn and cut
around the shell with their bill. Often,
because of pressure
within the egg, the bill protrudes too far
out of the initial hole preventing the normal
anti-clockwise
progress of the bill chipping the shell
from inside. The bill becomes gummed up
with drying mucus.
Low incubation humidity levels lead to small
chicks with large air spaces by the time
the hatch is due.
These chicks will tend to be weak and may
also die just before, during or just after
hatching.
It should be noted that in general that
a slightly lower humidity level than optimum
is likely to be less
disastrous than a slightly higher than ideal
level.
Measurement of humidity.
Many materials are capable of absorbing
water or water vapour and air is one of
them. Water vapour is
a gas like any other gas, and air is a mixture
of gases, one of which is usually water
vapour. The
difference is that the amount of water vapour
varies widely whereas the other gases which
make up
our atmosphere remain fairly constant. The
range of vapour may be from none to a certain
maximum
which the air can absorb (called saturation).
This maximum increases with temperature.
There are two commonly used ways to measure
humidity and the differences need to be
clearly
understood. These are:
Relative Humidity (RH) expressed
as a percentage.
This is a measure of the amount of vapour
in air compared with the maximum that could
be absorbed
at that particular temperature. This is
why relative humidity (RH) is quoted as
a percentage. For
example an incubation RH level of 50% might
be quoted. This means that at incubation
temperature
the air in the incubator contains half of
its maximum possible water vapour capacity.
Because
maximum possible water content increases
at higher temperature, if the temperature
was increased but
no additional water added then the % RH
level would drop.
A good way of imagining this effect is to
think of a bath sponge. When the sponge
is squeezed to half
it’s normal size clearly it can hold
less water. Imagine a half squeezed sponge
soaked in water until no
more can be absorbed (saturated) this is
analogous to cold air at 100% RH - no more
water can be
absorbed. If the sponge is allowed to expand
completely then, although the amount of
water has not
changed, the sponge is relatively dryer
than before because it has greater capacity
to absorb water.
This is analogous to warmer air containing
the same amount of water vapour which will
now have a
much lower RH level. Conversely when air
cools the capacity of the air to hold water
vapour reduces
and % RH levels will rise. If the air temperature
drops below the saturation point (100%RH)
the water
vapour condenses. An example of this is
dew forming on a cold night after a warmer
day.
Wet Bulb temperature
This is the temperature (in degrees C or
F) of a thermometer with a moist cotton
wick around its bulb.
Evaporation of water from the wick cools
the bulb by an amount related to the relative
humidity. This
cooling effect is the same as the chill
we feel when we step out of a shower. It
is the difference
between Wet Bulb temperature and air temperature
that is important, so air or Dry Bulb temperature
must also be known to define the RH. In
incubators the Dry Bulb temperature is constant
(we hope!)
so WB is often quoted on its own.
Direct measurement of RH is not easy. Cheap
hygrometers are available but you get what
you pay
for; we have seen cheap instruments reading
30% different from out of the same new pack!
More
expensive direct reading digital instruments
are better but need re-calibrating regularly.
When looking
into digital hygrometers check both the
accuracy quoted and the hysteresis percentage.
Both figures
should be better than +/- 5% - if either
is not quoted, don’t buy it! For example:
Brinsea’s H22
Humidity Management Module uses a top quality
sensor with accuracy of +/-3% and 0% hysteresis
–
see below for more details.
The most reliable, cheap method of measuring
RH, is to measure wet and dry bulb temperatures
and
convert the information to %RH by using
a simple chart.
A couple of points worth noting. The Wet
and Dry bulb thermometers may be conventional
(mercury)
thermometers or they may be electronic sensors.
There are two special cases where Wet and
Dry bulb
readings are identical; when the air is
saturated (100%RH), and when the wet wick
has dried out!
A further complication is that it is difficult
to measure humidity in ‘still air’
incubators. Wet bulb
thermometers do not work well in near static
air conditions. The other problem is that
the temperature
will vary by several degrees from the top
of a still air incubator to the bottom and
so RH readings will
vary with height too. Fortunately the humidity
level in still air incubators is probably
less critical than
fan assisted (or forced draught) machines
(see information sheet ‘So why fit
a fan?’).
Brinsea Products offer web bulb thermometers
to suit our range of moving air incubators.
Contact you
local stockist or Brinsea Products direct
for more details.
Achieving correct humidity levels
There is a fairly easy and reliable way
of measuring RH indirectly and directly
measuring the effect
that RH level has on the egg. This is by
weighing the eggs to monitor their water
loss over the
incubation period. Most species of bird
(with the exception of the ostrich family)
need to lose between
13 and 15% of their weight from the time
of setting the eggs in an incubator to hatching.
By
measuring the weights of the eggs at intervals
during incubation, taking the average weights
and
comparing these to the expected weights
needed to achieve the ideal weight loss
by hatching, it is
possible to see when the rate of water loss
is too great due to humidity being too low
and vice versa.
In practice this means drawing a graph (see
below) with incubation time in days along
the x-axis and
weight up the y-axis. The average weight
of eggs when set (day 0) can be entered
and the ideal
hatching weight (average day 0 weight less
14%) can be plotted on the day the hatch
is due. These two
points are then joined to give the ideal
weight loss line. Average weights can then
be taken every three
or four days and plotted on the graph. If
the actual average weights are lower than
the ideal then
humidity levels need to be increased and
vice versa. Thus any deviation from the
ideal weight loss line
can be corrected as incubation progresses.
The important point is to reach the ideal
weight loss by
hatching day; some deviation form the ideal
weight loss line earlier in incubation will
have little
adverse effect.
The graph above shows the average actual
weights of incubating eggs against the ideal
weight loss line - Note that the greater
than ideal weight loss in the earlier stages
of incubation has been corrected by hatching
day.
The combination of monitoring egg weight
loss and precise control of humidity with
the Automatic
Humidity Management Module (see below) is
the ultimate solution of ensuring correct
incubation
humidity.
Altering incubation humidity levels
All incubators should have the facility
to evaporate water inside the egg chamber
and thereby
influence humidity levels. Always refer
to the manufacturers instructions. The important
point is that
two controllable factors influence humidity
levels: water surface area and the amount
of fresh air the
incubator draws in. All Brinsea incubators
have two water vessels to give some flexibility
over
evaporation rates. Remember that it is the
total surface area of water that matters
not the depth. So to
increase humidity levels fill the second
vessel (or if both are dry, fill one) and
reduce ventilation by
either adjusting the control or blocking
up to half of the ventilation holes. Some
ventilation must be
maintained to allow the chicks to breath.
Refer to the operator instructions for your
model. In
exceptional circumstances it may be necessary
to further increase the surface area of
evaporation by
using evaporating pads or blotting paper
to soak water from the vessels in the incubator.
Do not spray
the eggs with water - the increase in humidity
is very short lived and bacteria may be
spread.
A third factor does affect incubation humidity
levels and this is the ambient (or environmental)
humidity level. Clearly if the air being
drawn into the incubator contains very little
water then
incubation humidity levels will be lower
(all else being equal) than if outside air
is very humid. As
explained above cold air cannot contain
much water vapour so when cold winter air
is warmed
temperature the Rh level will be very low
(remember the sponge!). This happens in
heated houses in
winter and in incubators. The result is
that, in general, humidity levels will tend
to be lower in your
incubator in winter than in summer and so
water evaporation and ventilation levels
should be adjusted
with this in mind. Because eggs are particularly
sensitive to excess incubation humidity
the most
common mistake associated with incubation
is to use the same regime of water and ventilation
in the
summer that was successful in the winter.
In warm summers it may be possible to add
no additional
water to the incubator until hatching time
because the combination of warm, damp ambient
air plus the
water given off by the eggs themselves gives
sufficient RH levels.
There is no evidence of any change in ambient
humidity levels associated with global temperature
change as a result of the Greenhouse Effect.
Small climatic temperature changes are insignificant
when compared to seasonal variations and
so although it may be fashionable, there
is no justification
in blaming a poor hatch on global warming.
Humidity and Hatching
The humidity levels required as the chick
emerges are different from those earlier
in incubation. For
the last day or so of incubation humidity
levels need to be much higher than earlier
on. By this stage
the weight loss of the egg should be 13-15%
and water loss for the last 24-48 hours
will not
significantly affect this. The high humidity
levels are required to prevent the membranes
of egg
drying too fast as the chick hatches and
becoming tough and difficult to tear. In
natural incubation the
membranes cannot dry quickly because the
parent bird is sitting on the egg but in
an incubator drying
membranes can be a problem. The actual level
of humidity is not too critical for hatching
but needs to
be at least 60% RH. Humidity levels drop
rapidly when the incubator is opened and
take much longer
than temperature levels to re-establish.
Try to avoid the temptation of opening the
incubator too often
when chicks are emerging to maintain high
RH levels.
Automatic Humidity Management
To meet the needs of bird breeders concerned
about controlling incubation humidity Brinsea
have
introduced the Automatic Humidity Management
Module. This device serves to provide a
highly
accurate and constant readout of humidity
(expressed in %RH) and an a precisely controlled
pump
which regulates RH within the incubator
to the setting the user selects. Thus, in
a similar way to the
principle of Brinsea’s temperature
controls, the user turns a knob to select
the humidity level the eggs
require, the unit responds by altering the
amount of water pumped to the incubator
and the change in
humidity level can be monitored on the meter.
Because the system is constantly monitoring
the
incubation humidity level, external effects,
such as seasonal ambient humidity variations,
are
compensated for and the incubation humidity
level remains constant. For hatching, the
user simply has
to increase the setting on the module and
the new setting will automatically be maintained.
The
Automatic Humidity Management System overcomes
problems of wicks drying and becoming
contaminated sometimes associated with wet
bulb thermometers and provides the ultimate
in
refinement of humidity control. Versions
are available for all forced draught (fan
assisted) models in
Brinsea Products’ range of incubators.
Contact your stockist or Brinsea Products
direct for more
details. |
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